The highlanders of Bhutan
By Tessa Bunney on 5 June 2015
Heading up to the 4200m Nachung-La pass | 20 May 2015
I have safely returned from the epic journey to visit the Brokpa people in Eastern Bhutan none the worse for a surfeit of yak products and a few friendly tiger leeches… The wonderful welcome from the Brokpa people more than made up for the effects of altitude – I have never eaten so little and walked so much with so little energy.
This past fortnight has been all about yaks, wool and the beautiful culture of the Brokpa herders of Eastern Bhutan.
The Brokpa, the semi-nomads of the villages of Merak and Sakteng are said to have migrated to Bhutan a few centuries ago from the Tshona region of Southern Tibet. Thriving on rearing yaks and sheep, the Brokpas have maintained many of their unique traditions and customs. In summer they move to the pastures with their yaks and sheep and in winter they return to live in their houses, normally built of stones with small ventilation to protect from the piercing cold weather. As virtually nothing grows in Merak and Sakteng, the Brokpas trade their butter, cheese and yak meat with neighbouring villages for daily necessities.
Their distinctive hat known as tsipee cham is made of yak felt with long twisted tufts, said to keep the rain from running onto their faces.